By Alicia EricksonFeatures correspondent
Alicia EricksonYurii Kovryzhenko's holubtsi, Ukrainian cabbage rolls stuffed with potatoes and buckwheat and simmered in a tomato-red pepper sauce (Credit: Alicia Erickson)Rolled cabbage leaves are stuffed with a mixture of potatoes and buckwheat, simmered in a rich tomato-red pepper sauce and topped with a dollop of sour cream.
An array of vegetables and starches were laid out on a metal kitchen counter: a plate of blanched Savoy cabbage leaves, a bowl of creamy mashed potatoes, a side of fried onions and a cup of boiled buckwheat groats.
"Ukrainian cuisine is comfort food," said Yurii Kovryzhenko, the chef and mastermind behind Mriya Neo Bistro, a new Ukrainian eatery in the West London neighbourhood of Chelsea. "We enjoy fresh ingredients with simple flavours."
This ethos is centre stage for his holubtsi, cabbage rolls crafted with simple but complementary ingredients, creating a dish that is subtle, comforting and flavour-forward all at once.
A heralded name on Ukraine's culinary scene, Kovryzhenko happened to be in London for a food project with the Ukrainian embassy five days before the Russian invasion on 24 February 2022. Amidst the uncertainty of the war, he remained in London, and in late August, launched Mriya with a few other Ukrainian transplants, who are working tirelessly to keep their culture alive. Mriya translates to "dream" in Ukrainian, a sentiment at the heart of the food and the space that blends the old-world traditions of Ukraine's coastal and mountain villages with modern innovation and creativity.
Variations of holubtsi can be found in cuisines across European countries, including Ukraine, Poland, Greece, Romania and Finland, as well as Turkey. Although the exact lineage of the dish can't fully be traced, a version of stuffed cabbage known as "holishkes" has been part of Jewish cuisine for approximately 2,000 years.
The name "holubtsi" is derived from the word for pigeon in Ukrainian: holub. In a bygone era in Ukraine, a local dish served at aristocratic feasts was prepared by wrapping pigeons in cabbage leaves and cooking them on a spit or grill. Over time, while the cabbage leaves remained, the birds were swapped out for grains, vegetables and other types of meat, such as pork or veal.
"This dish is now eaten as part of everyday cuisine in Ukraine," Kovryzhenko said. "But it used to be only enjoyed as a celebration food at Christmas or during weddings."
While eaten more regularly, holubtsi still features as part of an elaborate Christmas Eve dinner known as Sviata Vecheria, consisting of 12 traditional meatless dishes (in Ukraine, Christmas Eve is the final day of a 40-day Nativity fast leading up to Christmas Day).
Yurii KovryzhenkoYurii Kovryzhenko, chef at Mriya Neo Bistro in the West London (Credit: Yurii Kovryzhenko)According to Kovryzhenko, the first step to making holubtsi is to separate the cabbage leaves and blanch them so they're malleable. While white or Savoy cabbage can be used, Savoy cabbage leaves cook more quickly. After the cabbage leaves are cooked, they are filled with a spoonful of stuffing (Kovryzhenko uses mashed potatoes, boiled buckwheat and fried onions) and rolled tightly.
"Boiled buckwheat is Ukraine's 'superfood'," Kovryzhenko said. "At my grandparents' house in the countryside, we used to cook buckwheat with condensed milk and sugar for breakfast – perfection!"
Other variations may include ground pork or veal mixed with rice during non-fasting times. The potatoes can be substituted for a dry Ukrainian cottage cheese or mashed white beans. Holubtsi from the Carpathian Mountain region deviate even further from the typical recipe, serving up pickled cabbage leaves filled with corn grits or grated potato and topped with a mushroom sauce. On the Crimean Peninsula, which has a Mediterranean-like climate distinctively warmer than the rest of Ukraine, holubtsi are made with grape leaves instead of cabbage. In an upcoming menu at Mriya, Kovryzhenko plans to serve holubtsi wrapped in courgette (zucchini) flowers, echoing his "tradition meets innovation" philosophy.
Once assembled, the holubtsi are ready to be simmered. "Line the pot with a few cabbage leaves so the rolls don't burn," instructed Kovryzhenko, as he added the holubtsi and covered them with a tomato-red pepper sauce. "First, bring the pot to a boil and then turn it down to a simmer for about 15 minutes."
An enticing aroma wafted through the kitchen, signalling that the holubtsi were ready to eat. They sat before me immersed in a rich tomato-red pepper sauce and topped with a dollop of sour cream, a sprinkling of young parsley leaves and a drizzle of the house oil. The herbaceous green oil is created from a blend of a neutral-flavour oil like sunflower or grapeseed oil, garlic, parsley and dill, all of which are staples of Ukrainian cuisine. Sour cream is also added to many dishes – including borsch, varenyky and holubtsi, to name a few.
My knife sliced smoothly through the tender cabbage leaves and the potato-buckwheat mixture. The sauce balanced the bitter cabbage, while the fresh herbs and sour cream enhanced the simplicity of the potatoes and buckwheat, striking the perfect balance.
Alicia EricksonYurii Kovryzhenko fills cabbage leaves with about a tablespoon of the stuffing (Credit: Alicia Erickson)Holubtsi recipe
By Yurii Khovryzhenko
(makes 24 pieces/6 portions)
Ingredients
For rolls
27 Savoy cabbage leaves
1kg potatoes
1kg buckwheat groats
800g onion
100g vegetable oil
salt
ground black pepper
For tomato-red pepper sauce
5 red peppers
600g carrots
600g onions
70g vegetable oil
2 garlic cloves, grated
150g tomato paste
150g sour cream (for those fasting or for vegans, omit)
water
ground coriander seeds
smoked paprika
salt
ground black pepper
Method
Step 1
In a pot of boiling water, quickly blanch the cabbage leaves (1-2 minutes); they soften quickly.
Step 2
To prepare the stuffing, boil and mash the potatoes. Bring the buckwheat to a boil and then simmer until water is absorbed (about 15 minutes). Finely chop the onion and fry in vegetable oil until golden. Mix everything and season with salt and black pepper to taste.
Step 3
Lay out the individual blanched cabbage leaves and remove any tough parts from the leaves. Fill the leaves with about a tablespoon of the stuffing and then carefully and tightly roll the leaves. Set aside.
Step 4
To prepare the sauce, roast the red peppers until tender. Remove seeds and skin and cut into pieces.
Step 5
Shred the carrots on a coarse grater. And finely chop the onions.
Step 6
Fry onions and carrots in vegetable oil in saucepan until golden. Add roasted red pepper, grated garlic and tomato paste. Simmer for 10 minutes.
Step 7
Blend this mixture in a blender until smooth. Add sour cream and enough water to achieve the consistency of very liquid sour cream.
Step 8
Add all the spices and salt to taste.
Step 9
Place three cabbage leaves on the bottom of the pan and pour a little sauce over them. Then lay out the holubtsi in layers, fitting tightly together. Pour the sauce over them to cover them completely.
Step 10
Cover pot with a lid and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer with the lid on for 15-20 minutes.
Step 11
Top with sour cream and fresh herbs, like parsley and dill, or enjoy on its own.
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